Before we say bye to 2015…

A tram in Lisbon, Portugal

A tram in Lisbon, Portugal.

Happy 2016!

Before 2015 completely fades into the horizon, I wanted to take a moment to appreciate various amazing things I discovered over the year. (Quick note: Some of them were made much earlier, but they took a while to find me.)

1. Books

Barry Schwartz, author of The Paradox of Choice

How to Get Lucky: 13 techniques for discovering and taking advantage of life’s good breaks, by Max Gunther – I’m an amateur self-help fan, and like how you can pick and choose each author’s advice depending on how it applies to your own life. This book appealed to me especially because Gunther (a one-time journalist) dissects how to make or break your luck in a very rational, straightforward style. So, it’s old but many of the principles hold true. I learned about this on the Farnam Street blog.

I Must Say: My Life as a Humble Comedy Legend (audiobook), by Martin Short – This book has a remarkable amount of depth and humility for a celebrity memoir. My advice: For sure listen to it. Short is a brilliant voice actor and vocally recounting scenes from his life makes the stories still more intimate. It’s cheesy, but by the end you really do feel like one of his best friends.

The Paradox Choice, by Barry Schwartz – Are you a Maximizer or a Satisficer? This book was written in 2004 yet, even today, still spills over with interesting ideas about how the number of options we encounter can overwhelm us. (And perhaps still offer some value.) Regardless of whether you agree with Schwartz’ conclusions, it’s a fascinating way to look at how we make decisions.

2. TV

Friday Night Lights – Honestly, apart from Portugal, this might be my favorite of this whole list. I was late to watch the series, but was in its grips from episode 3 or 4 up until the very end. (That said, feel free to skip Season 2.)

3. Film

Clouds of Sils Maria – When Olivier Assayas does well, he does wonderfully–this movie is a great example. Instead of playing some mysterious European, Juliette Binoche’s character is grappling with very real issues of aging and friendship. Kristen Stewart gives her role complete and utter authenticity.

A Most Violent Year – I’m terrible about watching violence; fortunately this movie doesn’t have much of it. It’s retro and dramatic and thrilling in all the most watchable ways.

Digging for Fire – Having seen a few of Joe Swanberg’s earlier movies, I thought this ran a risk of being too indie and precious. It turned out to be friendly and universal.

4. Travel

Pena Palace, Portugal

Pena Palace, Portugal

Portugal – Somehow everything there managed to be vibrant, historic, and kind. I can’t wait to go back.


5. Wellness & Beauty


Smith’s Rosebud Salve  – Really, truly moisturizes lips. Finally!

Nutribullet – Makes green smoothies so much easier.

Running an ice cube over your face – Love how it smoothes and tightens skin.


Lisbon, you are my density

Rossio Square, Lisbon

Rossio Square is one of so many I lingered in last week. According to Wikipedia:

It has been the setting of popular revolts and celebrations, bullfights and executions, and is now a preferred meeting place of Lisbon natives and tourists alike.

Some Saturday notes

The Tailor and the Giant, by James Kruss

The Tailor and the Giant (by James Kruss and Edith Witt) was one of my favorites growing up.

1. Do you find it hard to meditate regularly, or at all? That’s fine, says Adam Grant.

2. The German movie Phoenix is just great–see it if you get the chance. It has a 99% on Rotten Tomatoes. (I’m normally a scaredy cat about thrillers, but this one strikes the perfect balance of suspense, melancholy, and history.)

3. This Target boho blouse just nails it–pretty embroidery without being too peasanty. I am wearing it now.

4. During a Q&A at Town Hall the other night, Steven Pinker responded that he’s pro-Oxford Comma and the audience started cheering. (Who can’t love Seattle?)

5. I had no idea Chuck Palahniuk is irrepressibly hilarious until I heard this Live Wire interview.

6. Palace journeys continue: It’s almost time to head over here, hurrah!


Bratislava to Salzburg – by train

Vienna Salzburg train trip scenery

Travel’s addictive for many reasons, not least of them being the problem-solving involved. Curiously, blogs and Instagram accounts show us the impossible glamours of visiting far-flung locales but never seem to mention what airport transportation they took or how they bided their time waiting at the gate. (Hello, people, those details can be the most interesting part!) A lot of labor goes into going places, and, when it comes to coordination, what looks like SATC II might feel like The Curious Incident of the Dog in the Night-time.

Of my more recent travels, one of my most choreographed days required taking trains from Bratislava to Salzburg. While I got to Bratislava by the wonders of hydrofoil, no such transport was available over the ~237 miles westward to Salzburg. Overall Europe’s trains are friendlier than the United States’, but, like any mass transit, taking them can require a presence of mind I wasn’t totally sure I had. (Others can correct me, but I feel like trains are 90% planning and 10% luck. There’s not a lot you can do about strikes, incorrect platform signage, etc.)

My 5-hour journey between the cities required two trains:

1. Bratislava to Vienna: While just an hour, this trip was complicated by my being unable to speak Slovak or buy a ticket until physically in Bratislava (they didn’t sell online or in Vienna). Also, to shorten the trip time and make transferring simple, I needed to use a more-out-of-the-way station.

2. Vienna to Salzburg: Fortunately, I was able to buy this ticket ahead of time and print it out in Vienna. Because Wien Meidling (the Vienna station where I transferred trains) is so large, my main concern was that it would be a challenge to transfer platforms in 20 minutes’ time.

Leaving Bratislava

Since it isn’t particularly near the historic center, I took a cab to the Bratislava Petržalka train station. (Though the tourist office did say taking a bus to get there would be easy.) Considering godforsaken pictures of Petržalka I’d seen, its contemporary interiors were a small surprise. None of the ticket vendors spoke English, which I’d been mentally prepared for if not verbally.

Bratislava Petrzalka train station interior

Once on the platform, I couldn’t find the train to Vienna for the longest time. Then, only after seeing a couple people walk off to the right, did I realize it had been sitting there (way, way off in the distance, past the platform–not even visible in this photo) the whole time. Close call!Bratislava Petrzalka train station platform Luckily, the seats were mostly empty and in decent shape. Because I toted around my trusty Eagle Creek daypack during the trip, finding room for luggage wasn’t a problem.Bratislava train to Vienna Interior

The ride itself from to Petržalka to Wien Meidling was only about an hour, but certainly still enough time for pleasant views: Train Trip Bratislava Vienna - Scenery

And then we rolled into Vienna, and I listened to the overhead announcements extremely carefully. While I knew there would be stops before Wien Meidling station, it can be easy to lose your bearings during that stage–especially when everyone else is exiting and you’re one of the only passengers left.

Arriving at Wien Meidling

Eventually, after many stops and starts, the train rolled into Wien Meidling and I disembarked. With 20 minutes on the clock, I ended up finding which platform to wait at by… looking it up on my smartphone. And finally, at 11:57 AM, my train appeared on the sign overhead, arriving 3 minutes later.Wien Meidling train platform

Train #2 rolled up and we all boarded–finding a seat wasn’t hard at all. For the next few hours I was happy to sit back, listen to podcasts, and enjoy the hills…

Austrian countryside

Vienna to Salzburg train sceneryVienna to Salzburg train Alpine sceneryStadt Haag, Austria

Salzburg Hauptbahnhof Station

By the time I reached the Salzburg Hauptbahnhof station (which, pictured below, has all your sauerkraut needs covered), I was both proud of my rail journey and ridiculously tired. Wonderfully, my hotel was just a block away, presenting a great opportunity to nap, shower, and look forward to castles and mountains in the days to come.

Sauerkraut in Salzburg

Vienna to Bratislava – by hydrofoil

Twin City Liner - Leaving Vienna

Leaving Vienna on the Twin City Liner, en route to Bratislava.

I’ve talked about what happened once I arrived in Bratislava, but now it’s time to share how I actually got there.

As it happens, this is another coworker recommendation–what can I say, I work with knowledgeable people! Back in January, when I was telling the world about my upcoming trip to Vienna, a well-traveled colleague mentioned he’d taken a hydrofoil along the Danube from there to Bratislava, and the experience was “really nice.”

This would end up being the activity I planned the entire trip’s schedule around, since the Twin City Liner hydrofoil opens each year in mid-April. (And let it be noted the planning took several emails back and forth with Twin City Liner, since their website’s booking setup didn’t totally work. But when you do email they are extremely friendly and accommodating!)

It turns out my coworker was indeed right–the 1 hour, 15-minute boat ride along the Danube did have a special feel to it. After running around Vienna for several days, what a relief it was to just sit back and contemplate the river.

First, the beginning: the Vienna Twin City Liner station (it took me forever to find this place!).

Twin City Liner - Vienna station

The Twin City Liner Vienna station. (Abgang Marienbrücke, Schwedenplatz, 1010 Wien, Austria.)

Before long, we were immersed in lovely Danube scenery. (You might notice most of my pictures are from the front of the boat; the first-row upgrade was without a doubt worth it.)

Scenery on the Danube River

The Danube River in its natural grandeur.

Here’s the boat’s interior:

Twin City Liner interior

What the Twin City Looks like from the last row. (There’s also a small deck on the back.)

Passing the Devin Castle ruins was one of the trip’s highlights:

Devin Castle ruins

The Devin Castle ruins, with my first of many dilapidated Slovakian buildings.

Not long after that, Bratislava came into sight, with its recognizable Bratislava Castle:

Bratislava from the Danube

Bratislava in the distance, from the Danube River.

As we approached Bratislava, it did dawn on me that I was finally about to go behind the once-“Iron Curtain” for the first time. So, here we go…

Bratislava Twin City Liner station

Bratislava’s waterfront, including its Soviet-style Twin City Liner station. (Fajnorovo Nabrezie 2, Bratislava 811 02, Slovakia [Staré Mesto].)

And one last look, before I ventured into unknown, historically rich territory:

Twin City Liner hydrofoil

One last farewell (or, in Slovak, “Dovidenia”).

Hallstatt, Austria

Hallstatt, Austria

Hallstatt is best known for being home to the world’s first (known) salt mine.

In addition to its castles and cake, Austria endeared itself to me still more when I discovered the tiny lakeside village of Hallstatt. Set in Austria’s lake district (Salzkammergut), Hallstatt is one of the tamer UNESCO World Heritage sites I’ve visited, offering stunning views of the Alps and a general sense of serenity.

When planning out the trip’s itinerary, it took me a while to decide what order to visit all these places (Fly into Vienna, or leave it as a grand finale?). But by the end, I was relieved to have visited the grandeur of Vienna first, and left the last few days of my trip for soaking up these more natural wonders.

Owing to its millennia of salt mining, Hallstatt is an archaeologist’s dream–people have lived here for 7,000+ years, and it serves as namesake for the Celtic Hallstatt culture (approx. 800-400 BC). Hefty cultural significance aside, it’s still just a fun place to walk around. (Taking a Bob’s Tour, which I’d highly recommend, my fellow tourists and I had a couple hours to take in the town and its lake.)

Believe it or not, there’s a full recreation of Hallstatt in China, built by the Chinese company Minmetals for $960 million. Something makes me doubt the Sachertorte and Apfelstrudel can quite be replicated, though.


Evangelical Church of Hallstatt and ferry

Hallstatt’s Evangelical church (built in 1785) and the ferry we took across the lake.

Hallstatt mountains

For those with a few hours, take the salt-mine funicular up to the Hallstatt upper valley, offering panoramic views of the area.

Hallstatt Cemetery

Hallstatt’s well-known cemetery, where a grave can be re-occupied every 10 years.

 Hallstätter See

Hallstätter See, taken from the ferry that crosses the lake.

Mondsee Abbey

Mondsee Abbey, where the Sound of Music’s wedding scene was filmed. (We stopped here later in the tour.)